Panther XL USB Ver3 and Ver 4 only

How to set the Deadzone:

Problem: The controller is in neutral position but continues to type the W A S or D keys.

Solution: Set the Joystick Deadzone correctly.

Cause: Most often cause is wear in the joystick gimble.  Sometimes a POT will just change its output values as it ages and with use.  We are asking a POT to behave like a switch and they don’t always play nicely.

Programs Need: AKIConfig.exe from the CD copied to a folder on your windows computer or get the file here

IMPORTANT WARNINGS: Do NOT adjust the deadzone while in Keystick Mode !  The DeadZone can ONLY be set in Joystick mode !  The following will show how to adjust the deadzone correctly !

JAVA UPDATES: If your computer has a Java Update waiting in the system tray, do this update before you run the AKIConfig and restart, these updates can really mess up the settings of the controller.  Its not a terminal issue but it will be frustrating when it wont work !

1) With controller plugged in, Run the AKIConfig.exe, it will look like this:

akiconfig

2) The AKIMode will show “Single Analog 14 Button Keystick”. If you click the Keystick setup button you will see the yellow “plus” in the middle of the large black plus.

keystick1

This is NOT truly the Center point of the Joystick, the Red Box is where the Deadzone is set (every controller has different center point and deadzone).  To see the center point of the joystick we need it to be in joystick mode. Click Ok to leave this menu.

3: The next step is to set the controller in JoystickMode, use the AKIMode Drop down menu and select the top option “Single Analog 6-Axis 14 Button Joystick”.

joystickset

4) Press the Save Settings Button:

savesettings

A dialog box will pop up asking to uplug the USB cable and replug it in, do this now, unplug and count to five, replug in.  The controller will now be in Joystick Mode

If you see an error that “Device Communication Interrupted”, close the error and press the “scan devices” button.  Press the save settings button again and it should work.

5) Whenever the controller is set to a new mode, the computer will need to be restarted, this is a bug in Windows Code, all 32 bit systems have it and sometimes happens in 64 bit.  The computer will act like the user is holding down a Control key and make it imposable to navigate menus and alike.

6) After the computer has been restarted start the AKIConfig Program again.  The controller should be set to Joystick mode.

Now press the Keystick setup button, it should look like this with the Yellow + not in the middle of the graph.  Note that the position my yellow + is in will not be same as yours, could be anywhere near the center but not in center.  This is completely normal !

deadzone

You can now move joystick around and yellow plus should move smoothly (if jumpy you have a bad POT, contact me).  When back at the center point the yellow plus should be within the Red Box completely with a little space between the end of the yellow plus and the edge of the red box.

The Red Box Deadzone is made bigger by pushing the up and down arrows with the labels Top Bottom Left Right and have a number value.  The arrows are backwards so push what should make it go up and it goes down.

Unless the joystick is brand new it will have some play when in the center position.  This is why in the above photo the red box is much bigger than the yellow plus.  Move the joystick a little bit back and forth, it will move very easy until the spring tension kicks in.  Do the same side to side and make sure the ends of the yellow plus do not cross over the red box.

Adjust the box as needed, then push the stick to its extremes and around in circles and let it go back to middle.  Make sure when its back in middle the Yellow Plus in inside the Red Box, resize the red box as needed.

7) Repeat step 4 to save settings including the plug and unplug.  If you see a error that “Device Communication Interrupted”, close the error and press the “scan devices” button.  Unlike before if you see this error now you will have to go back into the Keystick setup and set the deadzone all over again (Step 6).  At this point you will be highly frustrated and now you know why I set them up before you get the controller !  I have had this happen 10,000 times in last 10 years, I feel your pain !

Press the save settings button again and it should work.

8) Now that the settings are saved, go to the AKIMode dropdown and set the controller to “Single Analog 14 Button Keystick” and hit the save button as shown in Step 4.

Then repeat Step 5, reboot your computer.

9) When computer has been restarted, run the AKIConfig Program and verify that the controller is in Keystick mode.  Then run Notepad and move the controller around and see the WASD keys typing.  Move stick all the way forward and let it fly back on its own to center.  You should see the WWWWWWW keystrokes stop and no S keys start typing.  If it starts typing S keystrokes the red box dead zone will need to be made larger.  Same with the pushing the stick right and getting AAAAAAAA typed.  Do this multiple times on the axis.

At this point the unit should be ready to be used.

10) Now that it is setup you can use the “Export settings” button and save your config, pick a name for it and save it someplace you can find it.  I recommend doing this so that it can be imported if needed later on.

If you still have issues the controller can be returned to me for repair, the cost of most repairs is the cost to ship it to me and the cost to return it to you.  So it normally works out to the cost of shipping to me and $20 for return shipping.  I don’t charge for the repair unless parts are needed.

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